Leaving the logistical hub of Windhoek and the initial historical lessons of South Africa behind, our self-drive adventure truly kicked into high gear. Our formidable Toyota Hilux devoured the miles, embarking on what would be one of our longest single drives: over six hours of anticipation, leading us deep into the heart of Botswana. Our destination for the night lay just past Ghanzi, a town often referred to as the “Capital of the Kalahari,” nestled firmly in the western part of this immense desert.
Botswana, officially the Republic of Botswana, is a landlocked nation positioned just north of South Africa. It’s a country synonymous with wild spaces, primarily because the iconic Kalahari Desert covers approximately seventy percent of its vast territory. This semi-arid sandy savanna stretches across Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa, but it’s within Botswana’s borders that it truly reveals its untamed majesty.
Like its neighboring regions, the land now known as Botswana has been inhabited for an extraordinary length of time – at least 400,000 years, with evidence of early human presence dating back even further. These ancient roots belong to the San people, often referred to as Bushmen, who are among the oldest inhabitants of Southern Africa. However, similar to the pattern across the continent, this rich indigenous history eventually gave way to European colonialism. In 1885, the territory was declared a protectorate by the British Empire, named Bechuanaland, primarily to secure a route to Rhodesia and prevent German expansion from the west. Bechuanaland remained a British protectorate until it peacefully gained independence as a sovereign Commonwealth republic, adopting its current name, Botswana, on September 30, 1966. Botswana’s post-independence history has been remarkably stable and democratic, transforming it into one of Africa’s most successful economies, largely due to its diamond reserves and commitment to conservation.
As the sun began its majestic descent, painting the vast Kalahari sky in fiery hues of orange and purple, we arrived at our campsite near Ghanzi. This would be our very first night of true wilderness camping on this journey, and a steep learning curve it was! We eagerly “learned the ropes” of our elaborate camping setup, which, with its rooftop tent and integrated kitchen, would serve as our sanctuary for the next several weeks. The setup felt complex at first, but knowing it would soon become second nature was comforting.
Later into the night, as darkness fully enveloped the desert, a moment of pure magic unfolded. Todd, experienced his first glimpse of the ethereal bands of the Milky Way, stretching across the nearly pitch-black sky, illuminated only by the faintest sliver of a crescent moon. The sheer density of stars, unpolluted by any city lights, was utterly breathtaking. After preparing a proper, hearty meal on the braai (the Southern African term for a barbecue, a culinary staple here!), Todd was utterly determined to capture that perfect, awe-inspiring picture of the cosmos. It was a humbling reminder of the infinite beauty our planet holds when allowed to truly shine.
Our adventure wouldn’t pause for long in Ghanzi. Our journey continued further north on the A3 highway, eventually leading us to Maun. This bustling town serves as the crucial “jump-off point” for the region’s largest and most famous attraction: the incredible Okavango Delta, a wetland paradise teeming with wildlife. But that, is a story for the next chapter of our Southern Africa odyssey!
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Helpful Links
- Campsites in Ghanzi: I do not think we prebooked this particular site, rather I think we just saw a camping sign and drove on in.
- Botswana Tourism Organisation: Ghanzi
- Botswana Self-Drive Guide by Tracks4Africa
- Botswana Map by Tracks4Africa
Stepping Thru Our Story:
- Exploring Southern Africa: A Journey Through Namibia and Botswana
- Understanding Johannesburg’s Complex Past and Present
- Exploring Soweto: A Walking Tour Through History
- A Journey through Windhoek: History and Highlights
- Camping Under the Stars in Botswana’s Kalahari Desert
- Discover Wildlife in the Okavango Delta: Canoe and Safari Experiences
- Exploring Wildlife in Chobe National Park
- Navigating Chobe’s Sand: A Journey Through Savuti
- Explore Chobe Riverfront: A Wildlife Paradise
- Victoria Falls: The Mighty Wonder Between Zimbabwe and Zambia
- Exploring Victoria Falls: A Guide to Zambia’s Hidden Gems
- Driving the Caprivi Strip
- Exploring Namibia’s Etosha National Park
- Exploring Etosha: Elephants and Conservation Stories
- A Scenic Journey to Swakopmund from Etosha National Park
- Exploring the Namib Desert: A Guide to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei
- Lost in Namibia: A Travel Experience to Remember
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