Today, I was able to officially begin my trip to Eastern Türkiye as I did make my flight from Istanbul, providing my first destination as Kars, located in the northeastern portion of the country. Kars was once an Armenian stronghold, part of the province of Ayrarat in the Kingdom of Armenia, and later the capital of the Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia from 929 to 961.
For those who do not know, diplomatic relations between Armenia and Türkiye are officially non-existent and have historically been hostile. I do not plan to discuss the facets of the struggles in that relationship while on this trip. It is not the only challenged relationship of the region. Mayhap, I will cover such topics in some future time.
For my first day in Kars, I simply get around and explore, starting with the crown that sits above. The city is topped with the Castle of Kars, a large fortification overlooking the city. It was first built during the rule of the Armenian Bagratid dynasty and then rebuilt in 1153. The castle was expanded in the 12th century. It was destroyed by Timur in 1386, and rebuilt again in 1579 by the Ottomans, under Sultan Murat III. There were even actions of WWI here. Today, the area is visited recreationally.
In front of the castle, there is what was once called the Apostle’s Church. The church was built around 935 with reliefs representing the twelve apostles on the building’s exterior. It was converted to a mosque in 1064. The ownership of these lands has changed hands many times in history.
The area was ruled by Russian occupation in the 19th century. As a result, the city still possesses many Russian and Baltic gems. Walking the streets is very rewarding, passing the former mansions that have been repurposed into current-day government buildings.
While wandering around on my self-guided tour, stopping at a local restaurant for some ali nazik kabab is just the meal that I need. It is more of a yogurt stew with smoked, spiced eggplant, topped with lamb. It was a very delicious start to my time in Türkiye.
I know that this is not only going to be a cultural and historical trip, but I will also be having some great foods. I know that cheeses are very important for this region. For my remaining time in Kars, I stop over to the Kars Cheese Museum. I found the museum very interesting as it explained the history and making of the region’s cheeses. The museum’s building is in an old, historic bastion that has been repurposed. It is a short, self-guided walk through the museum, and I agree with some of the review that I read; it would be great if there was a tasting at the end. Either way, it was worth the visit.
This entry is part of a trip. Continue the story? —> Forward
Or see a summary of my whole time in eastern/southern Türkiye.
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